It's been a pretty slow week for the surfing this week for me. High tides have been in the late afternoons, and the winds have been pretty strong and onshore. I guess I could go in the morning(s), but my work needs me to be in pretty early.
I have found that some of the quieter breaks like Palm Beach Estates to be good for long boarding. It is a break south of Playa Grande at marker 25...about 500 meters south, but there is a place to park a car nearby if you know the area.
The other day I was surfing a big heavy funboard there without a leash doing some new tricks. Starting on one foot surfing regular then doing a 180 and surfing goofy. Kinda fun! I did a carve back on a goofy left and lost my board, so had to swim into shore for it.
As I was about to pick it up in about 3 feet of water, a wave back washed into it and it smashed my head. Right away I knew there was a cut. With blood pouring down my face, I made it back to the car where I keep a BIG first aid kit and administered triage on myself.
The local doctor wasn't in, so I hit the EMS where I was treated by a really great guy...who asked me why I surfed because "it is so dangerous". Apparently, he is constantly putting people back together who come off the breaks. The cost was only $60 by the way.
Anyways, four stitches to my head later and I am grounded to dry land for the next few days. The worst things about the accident.
1 - Lidocaine doesn't work on me yet they refuse to give me a better pain killer when sewing me up. Basically, I was stitched up sans anesthetic .
2 - I should know better then to surf a break alone...dumb ass!
3 - The surf was soooo good...I only got 45 minutes in before smashing open my skull
Anyways, I am seriously looking into surfing with a helmet. I snow board with one...I kite surf with one...I drive my Ducatti with one...
See you on the breaks in a few days when the weekend swell hits.
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