Costa Rica and the impossibility of doing business

For all of you who think that living in a surfing paradise is easy.

This past week was especially difficult for us who depend on simple things like water, electricity, roads and internet.    The weather has been sunny all week, and the only saving grace is that I have a Blackberry on the Costa Rican 3G Network.  Although, the actual speed of the 3G here reminds me of AOL dial-up circa 1998.

I think that Friday really summed things up with an email from AYA, the government run water monopoly who at least had the courtesy to send out an email for those of us who opted in.  It was as follows:

DEAR CUSTOMERS, We have problems in transportation lines and the network of water supply. This is because the repairs to the streets of Tamarindo, which take place at this time. For this reason and to repair existing damages will be suspended water service.  We have no definitive time to finish our repairs. We can not estimate a time to return to provide water service. We apologize for the inconveniences it may cause you.

Thank God we have a two huge water tanks buried under the garden, which means we can enjoy long showers and washing our cars for at least two weeks while the rest of Tamarindo bathes in the Pacific.

We lost power a few times this week.  It’s kind of expected in the rainy season, but during the sunniest weather we have had in months?  Perhaps the government subsidized monopoly  gave it’s employees a day off at the beach?  In reality, tourism season has started and the air conditioners probably drew too much load off the grid and the electricity company was unprepared.  It’s not like we have had tourists here before, right?

And on that note, the main highway called the Inter American Norte has been shut down for parts of last week.  This is the only route for commerce to move from the ports or from our neighbors to the north.  I guess that closures like this account for such a low GDP as you need to be able to transport good to sell them at market.  Funny concept I know.

And finally, the internet.  Also run by a government monopoly, we have had problems at the house for the past two months and have had countless technicians visit and try to determine the problem.  They tell me that for some strange reason there is not enough bandwidth coming up the hill to my house.  They can’t seem to figure it out, even after having 6 workers here on Wednesday for 5 hours.

I told them the problem.  Someone has parked a server in town and is eating up all the bandwidth so they need to (a) find the server and put him on a dedicated server or (b) increase throughput on the cable lines.

They assured me that I knew not what I was talking about and that it didn’t matter how many people were on the internet at the same time because bandwidth can’t get used up and slow up download/upload speed.

No, I am not kidding.

And then on Thursday, most of the country lost internet for about 40 hours.  No explanation.  No apology.  And no discount on the bill for sure.

25% of the people in the country who are employed work for the government or a monopoly, and this has led to an attitude of ineptness among the same.  They get paid no matter what and have a union that is so strong that the President would not have been elected without their support.  Next month,  all employees of Costa Rica must be paid a full month’s wages as a bonus as mandated by law.  Plus, they all get about 2 weeks off.

Is it no wonder that the country is close to being bankrupt?

I guess my overall point is to let people who think that they can carry out a remote business like I do, is that it is next to impossible.   I have to start a company in the New Year, and if this country had a dependable infrastructure, I could stay here and employee Costa Ricans.  As it turns out, I am moving to Canada where they have competition and people who care about your effectiveness to create wealth and contribute to the country’s GNP.

I’m back baby!

That was what the sandbar off Tamarindo’s main break announced to the world this week!

Because sandbars are created by water, and our sandbar in front of WRSC and the parking lot is created by the Tamarindo River (Estero), it shifts depending on where the water chooses to flow.

It has been two years now since I would consider the main break at Tamarindo any good due to this shift in the mouth of the river.

By the way, here is the definition of a sandbar (not the cougar bar in Vancouver either!) - A long mass or low ridge of submerged or partially exposed sand built up in the water along a shore or beach by the action of waves or currents.

Here is the old flow of water and the river mouth sandbar (which really needed a big swell to do anything decent)

Here is it now with the "new" sandbar highlighted in black

So, the surf has been awesome...just watch the rip current that starts about high tide minus 30 minutes and whips you south towards Pico Grande.

And if anyone is looking for lessons, please check out http://www.radicalsurfcr.com/    which is owned by Rudy and Stephanie who will be getting married this Saturday!

I’m back baby!

That was what the sandbar off Tamarindo’s main break announced to the world this week!

Because sandbars are created by water, and our sandbar in front of WRSC and the parking lot is created by the Tamarindo River (Estero), it shifts depending on where the water chooses to flow.

It has been two years now since I would consider the main break at Tamarindo any good due to this shift in the mouth of the river.

By the way, here is the definition of a sandbar (not the cougar bar in Vancouver either!) - A long mass or low ridge of submerged or partially exposed sand built up in the water along a shore or beach by the action of waves or currents.

Here is the old flow of water and the river mouth sandbar (which really needed a big swell to do anything decent)

Here is it now with the "new" sandbar highlighted in black

So, the surf has been awesome...just watch the rip current that starts about high tide minus 30 minutes and whips you south towards Pico Grande.

And if anyone is looking for lessons, please check out http://www.radicalsurfcr.com/    which is owned by Rudy and Stephanie who will be getting married this Saturday!

Never fly with Flying Crocodile in Costa Rica - you might die

Here is a copy of a letter I sent out to the owners of the local ultralight business, with copies to the local and international aviation authorities.

http://www.flying-crocodile.com/

Flying Crocodile

Correo Playa Samara Codico 5235, Apdo. 99 Guanacaste, Costa Rica

Dear Sir:

On Saturday May 1, 2010 at about 16:30 hours, I observed your Tamarindo based helicopter-type aircraft flying over the beach directly overhead from my position 50 feet from the shore at an altitude of about 30 feet. (10 Meters)

Your pilot made two passes over the beach at this level and it was close enough that I felt the propeller wash.

The surf break over which you buzzed was full of surfers – I observed about 45 surfers in the water and 100 people on the beach.

This is extremely dangerous behaviour, and you are endangering people’s lives should you lose control of the aircraft.

I note the following from the FAA, whose safety standards are generally recognised globally:

FAR-91:

·         Over Congested Areas - Shall maintain an altitude of 1,000’ above the highest obstacle within a horizontal radius of 2,000’ of the aircraft.

·         Min. 500’ AGL over non-congested areas (except over open water or sparsely populated areas).

·         Anywhere - Should maintain an altitude such that if the engine fails, an emergency landing may be executed w/o undue hazard to persons or property on the surface

There is no way you could have maintained your altitude without endangering lives in the water or on the beach.

Furthermore, the noise pollution was unnecessary and generally not enjoyed by those of us who live here and are your neighbours.

I strongly urge you to not fly with reckless disregard to international safety protocols before a tragedy befalls us all and you kill someone.

Regards,

Patrick

Hurricanes are Swell, Surf Costa Rica

I had that saying, "Hurricanes are Swell, Surf Costa Rica", made into a bumper sticker. Everyone loves the sticker, except one dumb ass (who recently failed at a surfing business here) who said, "Costa Rica doesn't get hurricanes."

Well, that's true. But we sure feel the effects of them when the trade winds come blasting from the East.

This season we are expecting 15 hurricanes, up from the average of 9.

That segways us into today's topic about the weather change here and the inbound southern hemi swells this week. The rainy season is here about 3 weeks early. 

Here is the view from my house this morning...ugh.  And the satellite view.  Double ugh.  At least it's cooler and somewhat greener though.  Usually, the rains begin here in Tamarindo around the 15th of May and are pretty heavy until late June, with rains usually coming down in the afternoons for 4 hours a day or so.  Thunder and lightening this early in April are unheard of, so I guess we have a banger of a season ahead.  Let's hope July and August are their usual selves.  (Pretty dry).


The change in season also brings about the southern hemi swells.  These swells originate from the Antarcitc and come racing up the west coast of Chile and Peru before spilling onto our shores.  See below.












As a result, we get some big waves.  Saturday looks to be way to big on the SSW facing shores, so look for more of a SW break, which should be easier.  Note the period at 9 seconds.

Thursday looks like the best day with a good period.

Have fun out there, and check to make sure you are using strong leashes and that your fins are on tight!

March 8 Surf Forecast Tamarindo and Northern Costa Rica

Well, I am getting a little better at this surf forecasting and am trying to get a better understanding of the winds and swell.

This week is looking pretty good with a swell coming in on Wednesday and peaking on Saturday. I would be looking at the swell to rotate back to a SSW after the weird WSW.

Last week, the surf reports all called for a small swell to hit with waves no bigger than 4 feet. Well...let me tell you...the swell brought in average waves of 6’, with rogue sets of 8’ to 10’ coming in on Thursday.

This week, I think we will see more of the same big waves. I would be looking for overhead for most breaks by Wednesday.

The winds have been brutally strong, but at least they have been offshore. One thing though is that they have pushed the warm surface water out and it has been replaced by a cold upwelling current that has brought Jelly fish and sharks close to shore. So, make sure you wear a wetsuit, or at minimum, a long sleeved rash guard.
I am heading to Nicaragua this weekend...taking lots of photos and surfing my ass off!

"Summer" is swell

Well we are well through July and the swells continue to fire in every week. I have been getting out as much as possible and surfing more of the beaches to the south including Marbella and Avellanas at least twice a week. As you note from the forecast, we are in for a good week here in Tamarindo and all along the northern Pacific coast of Costa Rica

(Marbella)



The bigger swells mean that some beaches close out sooner than others such as Grande and Playa Negra.

Airfares from most major hubs are dirt cheap, so if you can make it down before the middle of August then you'll be in for a treat.

I moved into my new office this past month and here is a view of it.

See you on the break

July 5th Surfing Update Tamarindo, Costa Rica

The surfing conditions in Northern Costa Rica's Pacific Coast have been outstanding lately on the SSW and South breaks. Recently, I have surfed Marbella, Playa Grande, Tamarindo and Avellanas in better than prime conditions. The best time has been on the incoming tide in all cases...from about high tide minus 3 hours to flood.

The wind has also been very cooperative, and we have been fortunate to enjoy offshore winds during the peak times, which have made for some excellent barrels.

This morning I surfed the river mouth at Avellanas, and caught some of the best rights of my life. Didn't quite have the power to get the board airborn, but I sure caught some major airtime jumping back over the waves.



This coming week looks sick. Note the lack of wind Sunday during high tide.



And have a look at the southern-hemi swells coming.


Hope to see you out there!

Memorial Day Surf Outlook

Hey Kids. It's going to be a bit of a slow week, but that doesn't mean it's the end of the world. Waves will stay weak for the first half of the week then rising to head high as a new SSW swell kicks in Thursday evening.


Friday should be outstanding with head high surfing on all SSW breaks such aas Langosta and Playa Grande. The swell peaks on Saturday, but it will still be strong as it fades on Sunday. Memorial Day Monday looks okay at about waist high, and looking at the swell charts there should be some good swell later on that week.


Things have been slow about town as we move into the Green Season. Hoestly, it's really been the quietest that I have seen in the three years I have lived in Costa Rica. The economy and the swine flu have taken a real toll on the travel industry, and the forecast is for a brutal summer 2009. (June to September).

There are lots of deals to be had on airfares, and most of the smarter hotels and hostels are ready to do deals. Wish I could say the same for restaurants and bars here in Tamarindo, which continue to price food way higher than it should be.

Even the grocery stores are being more generous in their discounts.

These mist covered mountains

The seasons are a-changing! Mornings are now a little misty (no not because I am hungover), and there is definitely more moisture in the air. Makes for some wicked sunrises and sunsets though.

The mountains and central valley of Costa Rica are starting to get some rain, and we on the coast in Tamarindo are about 40 days out. However, May through August are my favorite months as the rain only lasts a couple of hours per day and leaves the countryside a brilliant emerald green. It also cools the air substantially and makes the days out on the surf much more pleasant.

Last night I surfed the incoming tide at Playa Langosta from 33opm to 530pm, and it was great. The outer reef located about 200 meters from the shore was breaking, which made for some really fun rides. Some of us managed to take the outer reef all the way into the main break then into the estuary, making for a long ride! We did have to pump it pretty hard between the reef break and the main break though because it was a little mushy in the middle.

Closer to high tide, the main break formed up beautifully and the waves were chest to head for the entire session.






Theres so many different worlds
So many differents suns
And we have just one world
But we live in different ones
(Dire Straits)

Surf Report March 4th

This week looks pretty good!


We are still experiencing major winds making the water very cold from the upwelling. Note that they are supposed to peak this Friday. Everyone who has a wetsuit is wearing one, and I may even try to find some booties today...yea right.

So if you are coming down in the next while, plan to bring a short suit or something similar. (no, you don't need your arctic surfing gear)




Other than that, it has been classic surf with waves chest to head high at Playa Grande and Langosta, chest high at Casitas and waist high at Tamarindo.

The only bad thing is that there are lots of little grass fires all over Guanacaste, and the smoke is filled with particulate making for some coughing and 'ahems'.